Rainy Season

Rainy season has arrived in Tokyo. Rainy season means heavy and frequent rain, unpredictable rain, extreme humidity, and lots of mosquitos. On the bright side, temperatures are bearable for now (70s and 80s F). 

Between our insufficient rain gear and all the snazzy gear sold here, I ended up buying a few things. I had completely underestimated how different the Tokyo weather would be from Chicago's. I didn't even know how to prepare until the season began. The three major prongs to tackle are the rain, the humidity, and the mosquitos. 

Rain

I grew up in New Orleans, where summer rains were torrential downpours. They were sudden and intense, though often brief. In the summers, it would sometimes downpour every day for half an hour, and then the sun would come out again. Chicago's rains were mild and predictable in comparison. Tokyo's rains remind me of those of my childhood. 

Dealing with rain in Tokyo is unique in many ways. In Chicago, I didn't need to walk much unless I wanted to go on a walk. I usually took the train or a car. My gear needed only to sufficiently protect me during an eight minute walk from my home to the train station. An umbrella and rain boots were enough. Now, I ride my bike everywhere. Rarely do I take the metro or a taxi. A vacant taxi is hard to find when it is raining anyways. I have to drop off and pick up my daughter from school via bicycle. Luckily, my bike's child seat has a full rain cover. 

Since my old raincoat was merely "water repellent" and not "waterproof," I needed to find a truly waterproof raincoat with enough coverage to keep me dry on my ride. And a visor to keep the rain out of my eyes. After trying on a ton of raincoats and ponchos, I found that ponchos provided more versatile coverage and chose this one. The hood is just deep enough that, if I wear it underneath my helmet, it shields my eyes from the rain. 

For kids, full body rain suits are common. It is hard to see in the photo, but there are stirrups for the feet so the pants stay in place. This way, they can still play outdoors when it is raining. Otherwise, they might be stuck indoors everyday for days on end. 

My old Hunter wellingtons were so worn that there were holes in the soles, so I left them behind. After trying on a bunch of rain boots, I think the Hunter boots were the best that I've owned. I was ready to buy new ones. Then, the other day, I came across these Onitsuka Tiger boots. 

I liked them because they are more comfortable than rubber boots and more versatile as walking shoes. One drawback, though, are the laces. I am lazy about tying my laces and usually slip into sneakers without untying and retying. I can't do that with the shape of these. 

As of two weeks ago, I owned only one decent umbrella. It was foldable, light, and sturdy. My husband uses that one to commute to work via metro, so I went in search of my own. Umbrella technology is amazing in Japan. I was inundated with a huge selection of umbrellas that met all my criteria and more. There were ones that were as light as pencils. The one I chose provides both rain and UV protection. It is compact and feels nearly weightless. It also opens up to a decent size. 

Humidity

The humidity becomes intense during rainy season. It makes life complicated because most people line-try their clothes. Both the heat and humidity are more tangible because air conditioning is neither as ubiquitous nor as utilized. Homes and buildings do not have central air conditioning. Our home has air conditioning units in all the bedrooms, the living room, and the kitchen, but not the bathrooms. In stores and other public places, air conditioning is turned on only to the extent that you no longer feel hot (the way it should be). Here are some ways Japanese people deal with the humidity.

These are moisture-absorbing devices that you can place all over your home. Some emit a nice fragrance, others are fragrance free. The black one below is made of natural charcoal, which makes it eco-friendly and long lasting (up to a year). I bought a couple of closet ones that you can simply hang among your clothes to keep them fresh and mold-free. Instead of emitting a fragrance to conceal less pleasant ones, many of these absorb odors to keep your space odor-free. 

Mosquitos

Mosquitos are probably the worst of the trifecta. My kids have both had bad reactions to mosquito bites here. The bite site swells into a golf ball size, and it remains red and swollen for a few days. There are mosquito-repellent sprays, balms, and wipes. There are also stickers that last for up to 6 hours. I bought ones with natural citronella and eucalyptus derivatives. I has worked pretty well so far. Next time, I think I will get the cute character stickers. 

For soothing bites, I use a simple gel that cools and soothes the skin. There are also soothing stickers
meant to place over bites to prevent babies and kids from scratching the bite. I have not yet had to use those but might try it for baby M.

With our new acquisitions, we are equipped. It is a good thing that we are, because rain is in the forecast for the foreseeable future.

8 Things I Like About Life in Japan

In no particular order: 

1. Pedestrian traffic 

In Tokyo, pedestrians are good at maintaining their traffic flow. This is unsurprising not only given the population of Tokyo but also the large proportion of pedestrians here. Still, it stands out. Pedestrians are good at being aware of their environment. They walk straight. They keep to one side of the path. They easily hear someone behind them and will quickly move out of the way so that person can pass. That said, there are still lot of people walking while looking down staring at their phones, but keeping to one side of the path and walking straight maximizes predictability for others and minimizes the disruption. 

Good pedestrian traffic is important because pedestrians share the sidewalk with bicycles. Cyclists ride carefully and slowly on the sidewalks, but safety is a two-way street, and cyclists rely on pedestrians to keep out of the way as much as pedestrians rely on cyclists to avoid running into them. 

2. How Things Get Done

Paper forms are everywhere in Japan. Everything it seems requires you to complete a long form. My husband wanted to add his mobile number to our front desk's contact list, and they told him that he had to first complete a handwritten form. Japan is positively not paperless, and this is one of the things I hope will change. 

The first couple of months after we arrived, we felt overwhelmed by the amount of paperwork we had to submit. While there is a lot of bureaucratic paperwork, things generally work as they should. For example, it took a lot of forms for me to obtain my national health insurance card. Once I did, however, the administrative aspect of healthcare was easy. I have been to a handful of doctors so far. Every time, the cost is transparent, and the final bill is settled before I leave. I never have to weigh the necessity of a procedure against the incalculable, unpredictable cost that the insurance company will determine. I don't have to wait for months to find out whether I will be paying nothing or thousands of dollars. 

Rarely does your information get lost or reshuffled or misinterpreted. Almost never do you have to take the initiative to unearth a problem and then go chasing after the solution. If you do, you will likely find people who genuinely want to help you solve the problem. All in all,  I spend less time doing paperwork than I do trying to retroactively fix problems. 

3. Reasonable Prices

For some reason, I had been under the impression that the cost of living was high in Japan. Many fruits are, in fact, expensive compared to those in the U.S.. However, the costs of services in Tokyo is generally less compared to the same costs in Chicago. Yoyogi Park, one of the largest public parks in Tokyo, has a biking pathway and rents both kids and adult bicycles. It is hugely popular and yet costs only about $2 for an hour. I find it interesting that the price is not directly proportional to demand. It may be difficult to attain popular things and services, but the sticker price won't make you gasp. 

More often than not in Chicago, the cost of something exceeded its value (to me). I would have in my mind an idea of how much I would pay for something, an expectation, and usually it would end up costing much more. It felt like a lot of businesses charged the highest price they could. That, in turn, made it feel like they cared more about maximizing profit than serving the customer. 

In, Japan, I find myself constantly surprised at how reasonable prices are, even when it is something that people line up for. Japan is a capitalist country, but there is something at work in the market that goes beyond pure economics. That something - perhaps culture or custom - acts as a restraint on capitalism. 

4. Social Interactions

Japanese people take a lot of pride in their manners. Manners, broadly speaking, is your bearing towards, and impact on, others. Manners reflect as much on yourself as it does on how you consider others. How considerate you are of others is a reflection of how well you were raised - a reflection of not only yourself but your family and community.

In Japan, children, like most other countries, are taught core values, including kindness and consideration. These values are so important that they transcend beyond the individual. In other words, they are more important than individualism. This education begins early. My youngest daughter attends a Japanese nursery school. She is a year and a half and knows to take her shoes off at entrances. She knows to put away her shoes, and to hand her empty plates over after eating. 

Adult interactions reflect this as well. People's actions are shaped by how they will impact others. This affects how people dress (well), how they speak (carefully), and how they walk (with awareness of surroundings). Manners are important because it is a matter of self-dignity and respect for others, two concepts fundamental to Japanese culture. 

5. Community

There is a real sense of community in Japanese culture, even in a city like Tokyo. I think Japan's ethnic and cultural homogeneity was historically an important part of this. However, there are a lot of non-Japanese living in Tokyo today. This is especially apparent at the moment because the country's borders are closed to foreign tourists. Despite diverse backgrounds and ethnicities, many non-Japanese living here speak Japanese and almost all adopt cultural norms and customs. This provides commonality and facilitates a sense of community. 

I commute to E's school every morning via bicycle. It is amazing to see how many people and businesses begin the day cleaning their street. I once saw a gust of wind blow a business's sign down, right into the sidewalk. Immediately, a passerby, an elderly woman on a cane, bent over to prop it back up. I often see people picking up trash even when it is clearly not theirs. Each person is inclined to keep the streets clean because everyone in the community makes the same effort. 

6. Conservation

Japan is an island nation. Nature is a dominant force in life and resources are not taken for granted. The geography and environment have shaped the cultural devotion to conservation. Japanese people value efficiency and  resourcefulness. Unlike Chinese culture, where excess (especially when it comes to food) is celebrated and even socially necessary, Japanese culture celebrates the idea of having just enough. 

Japanese recycling involves cleaning and separating your trash into several categories. Of the non-recyclables, perhaps the largest category of waste is the burnables. Given Japan's small landmass, it has developed incineration plants designed to generate clean electricity from burning trash. The furnaces operate in compliance with strict anti-pollution laws. If you want to read about the details, the Ministry of Environment has published a report. 

7. Elevators

I have noticed that people often take stairs by default, unless it is a high rise office building or something similar. People don't necessarily take elevators just because they are there. My building has an elevator and stairs right next to it. While it is open for everyone to use, people only use it if they are on a bike or have a stroller. This is great because it leaves the elevator available for those who truly need it. 

Another great feature about elevators is the door close button. It actually works. In the U.S., I never bothered pressing it, because the doors never seemed to close any faster. When I first arrived in Japan, I continued to ignore the button. But other people in the elevator would lean across and press it. Soon, I realized that people expected me to press it after entering the elevator so everyone can get on with the ride. Here, the doors do actually close as soon as you press the door close button.

8. No Tips

There is no tipping in Japan. In some contexts, it can even be impolite to tip. Tip supporters say tipping encourages better service, but I have always received amazing service in Japan. 

In Japanese culture, work is a source of pride. Whether it involves real artisanship or manual labor, the shokunin spirit is present. A shokunin is an artisan, an expert craftsman who seeks to master a specific skill. The shokunin spirit can be described as the endless pursuit of perfection. 

Work is also a means of demonstrating dignity through hardship, which is highly valued in Japanese culture. In Japanese, (according to Wikipedia) Gaman means enduring the seemingly unbearable with patience and dignity. It means persevering, maintaining your dignity and control under distress. To do so is highly admired. Between the concepts of Gaman and shokunin, it is no wonder that tipping is irrelevant to excellent service. 

A Gradual Reopening: Tokyo Sea Life Aquarium

The current state of emergency (SOE) expires on June 20, 2021. Unlike the last SOE, this one likely will not be extended. Places are already beginning to reopen, and there is the feel of summer holiday in the air. Many of the government-run museums, parks, and zoos are now open, subject to entry allowances. We have been eager to go to Ueno Zoo and tried reserving tickets online as soon as reservations opened, but, unsurprisingly, tickets sold out within a few minutes. 

Instead, we went to Tokyo Sea Life aquarium, located on the coast of Tokyo Bay. As a public aquarium, ticket prices were very inexpensive. Children under age 12 are free. Tickets for students ages 12-15 cost only about $2 USD. Each adult ticket is less than $6 USD. The aquarium is a great size for young children. A bunch of exhibits, particularly interactive ones like touching starfish, were closed due to Covid. However, it didn't diminish our experience at all. There were plenty of things to see. Labels were in both English and Japanese, a bonus for me. The aquarium is located about half an hour by car from central Tokyo. Despite it being a weekend, it was not crowded at all. It was truly was a luxury, as I can only imagine how crowded Ueno Zoo must have been (Ueno is located more centrally). 

My favorite exhibit was the Bigeye Tuna one. Aquariums tend to display lots of exotic fish, which is nice, but it was refreshing to learn about a fish we all eat. I have read and watched a lot (Wicked Tuna and Seaspiracy) about Bigeye Tuna. I have eaten it. And of course, there are plenty of photos of them at the Tsukiji fish market auctions. So it was refreshing to see live Bigeye and learn about them as animals and not food. Their bodies are compact and powerful, and it was mesmerizing watching them swim.

E liked the penguins the best. M's liked every exhibit. We were surprised at how much she enjoyed observing the sea creatures. E did not really take in interest in zoos or aquariums until she was well over two. By comparison, M heaves herself up from the stroller to stare at the fish. Amazing how different siblings can be. 

The aquarium that is part of Tokyo Sea Life Park, also known as Kasai Rinkan Park. Since we wanted to stay and also explore the park, we had lunch at the aquarium. I got the Loco Moco sampler to share with M and the kids meal version for E. The food was decent and reasonably priced at about $5 USD for the kids meal and $10 USD for mine. The portions were very generous by Japanese standards. I helped E finish her meal, and my husband helped me finish mine. 

After lunch, we walked around the park, including a walkway overlooking Tokyo Bay. It also has a pathway garden full of flora and fauna, such as wasabi leaves and different types of fern, as well as frogs and other random creatures. There were signs describing everything, which made the walk all the more engaging. 

At another section of the park is a giant ferris wheel and a small arcade. E surprised us all by requesting a ride on the ferris wheel. She enjoyed a ride with her grandparents, though she also said that the wheel turned too slowly, especially because she had to use the bathroom. 

That was the end of our Tokyo Sea Life visit. For the kids, the rest of the day was spent napping, eating, and recuperating from all the fun. 

We are excited to spend next weekend with the cousins. Having survived 72 hours in hotel quarantine, my brother-in-law and his kids have finally made their way to my mother-in-law's house to complete the rest of their quarantine. At the hotel, they had the choice of five people to a room or separating into two rooms. If they had separated, they would not have been able to see each other for 72 hours, as leaving the room was prohibited. They therefore chose to stay together in a room with two queen size beds and a two-seater sofa. This was the largest room available at the hotel. Meals were well-balanced bentos, though they were cold and there was no microwave. Meals were left on a chair outside the door. At mealtime, an announcement was broadcasted to inform everyone to open their doors and receive the meals. The rules included no alcohol. While caffeine was allowed, no coffee or tea was served. There was a hot water boiler, so it would have been possible to make instant coffee. All members of the family were tested three times within a span of four days. 

While it sounds terrible, it is a story of our times. Right now, everyone is happy to be home. Next weekend brings new, albeit welcome, challenges, like how to feed twelve people! 

Itemized Grocery Prices & New Japanese Travel Restrictions for U.S. Travelers

I talk a lot of about grocery prices. It's because I spend a lot of time buying groceries. I also find price differences interesting. Why would Japanese-produced sake cost more in Japan than in the U.S.? It likely has to do with trade and taxes. I don't have a real answer, but this is true of a number of Japanese-produced items, like soy sauce and mirin. 

I have outlined below my receipt from a small grocery trip. This amount of groceries is what I usually bring home on foot or on a bicycle. 100 yen = 0.91 USD at the moment, but I'm converting using a rough estimate. 

• Peas: $1.90
• Green beans that tastes garlicky: $0.90
• Globe grapes: $3.75
• Honeydew melon: $3.75 
• This is by far the cheapest price I have seen in Tokyo for any type of melon. Melons are common fruit gifts and can easily run past $50 per melon. 
• Bananas: $0.90
• Cooked vacuum sealed chicken breast: $2.75/breast
• Package of naan: $2.75
• Pre-made shumai (package of 6, not pictured): $1.90
• This is very inexpensive for shumai. Turns out, it is also not very good shumai. Ready-to-eat shumai and nikuman (steamed buns) are common both on super market shelves and restaurant take-away stands. 
• Tofu: $1.00
• It is easy to find good quality tofu that is also inexpensive. 
• Organic yogurt: $1.75
• Yogurt: $1.70
• 750g Muesli: $5.25
• Oats are generally expensive in Japan. This is one of the cheapest bags of muesli I have found.
• Cold coffee: $0.90
• Cold brew coffee abounds in Japan! There is a wide range. This Boss brand is my favorite so far and is moderately priced. 
• Dried organic apricots: $3.75
• Dried organic prunes: $3.75

Note: Individual wrapping/packaging is very prevalent in Japan. Bananas are packaged. Sometimes individual lemons are packaged. It is because customers care a lot of about quality here, and while appearances do not always correlate with quality, it is the most obvious indicator. I wish things were different, and I do think things are changing. 

Now, on an unrelated note, we just found out that Japan has implemented new quarantine requirements for travelers arriving from the U.S. Upon arrival, travelers must quarantine at a government-approved hotel for 72 hours. Once at the hotel, they must stay in the room. The hotel provides three meals a day and other basic necessities, such as towels, toilet paper, etc.. However, nothing leaves the hotel room until you leave. Any luggage must accompany you and stay in the room with you during the quarantine period. If you are cleared with a negative covid test after the requisite 72 hours, you return to the airport and go through the regular customs and immigration procedure as you usually would. I think the government pays for hotel fees, though I'm not certain. 

Previously, travelers from the U.S. needed only to self-quarantine at home or any other self-arranged accommodation site. As far as I know, the new requirements came into force just a few days ago. One of my classmates from Japanese class returned to the U.S. for three days to receive the covid vaccine. She found out about the mandatory 72-hour quarantine the day before departure back to Japan. I am so, so glad that nothing like this was implemented when we arrived in February. I can't imagine staying in a room for 72 hours with a four year old and one year old. 

I mentioned in an earlier blog that my brother-in-law's family would be arriving this week from the U.S. They kids are ages 12, 10, 7, and 4. Rumor has it that the room size is determined by the number of adults, which is one. But I can't imagine that they would place all of them in a single occupancy room. But it seems a too much for a twelve and ten year old to quarantine alone together. If your family is divided, you won't see them during the 72 hours since you can't leave the room. 

They have already arrived, but we have not yet been in touch. I will write a bit more on how their quarantine is going in my next blog.  

The End of Spring & a Visit to Hibiya Park

It's hard to believe that we are already halfway through 2021. It is also hard to believe that the world has been living with Covid-19 for almost a year and a half now. When our daycare first shut down in March 2020, I thought the pandemic would blow over, in the worst cast scenario, in a few months. It seems ludicrously naive now. These days, it is hard to imagine what the new "normal" world will be like post-Covid-19. Right now, though, spring is already ending, and there is still so much to enjoy. 

The weather has warmed up rather slowly with most days being in the low to mid 70s Fahrenheit. That is a good thing, because Tokyo in the summer is almost unbearably humid and hot. Last week, there was a four day stretch of rain. It seemed like a premature precursor to rainy season, but fortunately it was a false alarm, as the following week has been dry. My commute to school on a rainy morning: 

Rainy season starts from June and lasts until July. As the name implies, it rains a lot and becomes really humid. I have no idea how people dry their clothes without tumble dryers during rainy season. 

I accidentally left my summer clothes behind, so I went clothes shopping for myself for the first time. I went to Uniqlo to buy just a few staples. Did you know that sizing is different at Uniqlo stores here? As you might guess, sizing runs small here. A small is about the same size as an American medium. Uniqlo Japan also has self checkout, which I have never seen at Uniqlos in the U.S.. At each register, there is a space to place your basket. Once you do, it automatically scans, calculates, and provides your total within a couple of seconds. The first time I did this, I thought the items were left from the previous customer, because I hadn't scanned anything. I went to a second machine, and when the same thing happened, I realized. It is pretty amazing. 

This past weekend, we visited Hibiya Park in the Ginza neighborhood. Although Ginza is known for being a flashy district for high-end shopping, Hibiya Park is a stark contrast to that. The park is filled with tall trees and endless bushes of flora. We saw lots of lilies and hydrangeas, which are also everywhere in the city. In the center is a pond. It is a beautiful green space in the center of the city. 

There is also a playground at the edge of the park. The playground has some interesting equipment, including what appears to be a set of gymnastic rings. Some of the equipment are meant for adults - they bear signs stating this. You can tell that all the equipment date a few decades back. the old and unusual equipment lent the playground a nostalgic, whimsical feel. Despite this, it is well-kept and still very much relevant, with tons of kids and families playing there. 

Close to the park is Tokyo Station, a mega station with tons of shops and restaurants. It has separate sections that you can access only by paying a couple of dollars for a train pass. It is definitely impressive for a train station, but not worth a trip by itself. On the weekends it is less crowded. However, some restaurants are also closed. The most interesting thing I saw there was this contraption below located in the family toilet room, which was incredibly large, clean, and well-designed. 

What is this? Can you guess? I don't have the answer. My best guess is a urinal, though it is a bit too high. it has a faucet and a soap dispenser, but also a flush option. A urinal/wash bin hybrid perhaps? Very intriguing. 

After a hot day in the sun, we tucked into a delicious cold dinner of sashimi, with a side of eel and small fried sardines. This is all from the grocery store. Almost any grocery store will have sashimi. Of course, the quality is better at some than others, though in my experience, it has never been poor. 

A beautiful sunset to accompany dinner:

Next week, my brother-in-law's family arrive in Tokyo. Three of the four kids are staying for most of the summer while the youngest, Cousin M, will be staying with her father for three weeks. There are no exceptions yet for people who are vaccinated, so they all must quarantine for the requisite two weeks upon arrival. Cousin M is the same age as E, and we can't wait for the festivities to begin.