Global Warming Blues, Joypolis, and Other Ways of Surviving a Heat Wave

    Every day in Tokyo for the last five days, and everyday for the next five days, temperatures will reach 35 to 36 degrees Celsius. That's 96-98 degrees in Fahrenheit. There has been no rain, despite this being the rainy season. The heat is oppressive, dangerous even. And it is days like these that make me think about what the world will be like when my children are my age. It makes me wonder about each choice I make: should I turn the air conditioning on for short-term comfort but at the expense of long-term harm to the environment? Why do I need chilled wine on demand when people are dying from natural disasters stemming from climate change? How can we avoid fish caught by trawling? Do my individual choices matter in the shadow of behemoth corporate, government, and military action? Even if my actions don't make a big difference, surely they matter to some extent. And of course, our collective choices do make a difference. 

    I think about how, in Japan and in many other places in the world, the majority of housework is shouldered by women. How collapsing cardboard boxes, rinsing and flattening milk cartons, dropping off the recycling at collection centers, using and cleaning rags instead of paper towels, using gentler solutions that require more effort, feeding your family more sustainable foods while ensuring their health and satiety, sorting through an infinite number of kids art projects to recycle and reuse - how so much of this is the work of women. Even so, as a woman completing many (but luckily not all) of these tasks, when I get cynical, I remind myself that there is always an opportunity cost to my actions (or lack of action). Convenience is rarely free. It also makes me aware that gender equality is another step to a more sustainable world. 

    Enough brooding. This post is really about the ways we have been trying to stay cool. The first is staying indoors as much as possible whilst keeping our kids entertained. On the weekends, they can only stay at home for so long without going crazy, so we looked into possible indoor outings. We decided on Joypolis, an indoor amusement park. My nephews and niece are also here for the summer, so we all went together. I was under the impression that Joypolis was somehwere between Chuck-E-Cheese and Dave and Buster's, but that is totally not the case. It was great for my almost 14-year-old and 11-year-old nephews, but it was a bit intense even for my 8-year-old niece, let alone my kids. It is probably the most fun for teenagers and young adults.    

Entering the Joypolis universe. 

    Joypolis was more like an arcade on steroids: bright artificial light everywhere, screens and sounds everywhere. It gave me sensory overload. My husband went here when he was a kid and said that it was more low-key fifteen, twenty years ago. I'm sure it was. 

    Kids under 7 are free (makes sense now). The entrance fee for kids 7-17 is about $4 USD and $6.50 USD for adults. Once you enter, each ride will cost about $5 and games are usually between $1-6. If you expect to go on a lot of rides, you can purchase the passport ticket for $30 for kids and $40 for adults. The passport tickets allow access to all the rides, but not the games. 

This looked like a good game for little kids, but it was hard, even for adults!

     We purchased the passport tickets for the older kids. They would have had to go on five rides to get their tickets' worth. However, there was an hour-long line for each ride, which would mean spending all day waiting in line. In the end, they went on three rides and played a bunch of games. They also played with a lot of claw crane games, if you can call those games, and actually won two massive stuffies without spending all their money. I was impressed. Preteens and their unexpected talents. 

    Joypolis is in Odaiba and located in a large shopping complex next to several other shopping complexes. The entire area is a neighborhood of malls. While this doesn't make for the nicest neighborhood, it makes it easier to find lunch. Joypolis has a few eateries, but they fill up quickly. Plus, so long as you keep your ticket, re-entry is permitted. 

Odaiba: Tokyo Bay on one side, entertainment hub on the other. 

    After lunch, I went with M and my mother in law to a nearby mall to take a break from Joypolis. E, though too young for most games and rides, was nevertheless having a good time since she was in the company of her cousins. So my husband stayed with the four older kids while I got a napping toddler. I would say that I got the better end of the deal. I spent the rest of the afternoon looking at art supplies for E's approaching summer holiday. So that was one hot day down, eight more to go. 

    We have also been consuming a lot of frozen desserts - a time-tested, much simpler way of coping with the heat. There are the usual frozen pops, but also more interesting ones we are trying for the first time. One of my favorites is the Crunch Choco Monaka, which is a wafer filled with half vanilla ice cream and half chocolate crunch. Although it is marketed as Hershey's product, I have only seen this in Japan. Another favorite is matcha ice cream topped with brown sugar, mochi, and matcha powder. Here is to making the best of the heat with sweets. 

A Baseball Outing

Last Friday, my husband and I went to watch our first baseball game since Covid-19 began. This makes it sound like we regularly went to games before Covid-19, and we didn't. We actually have not been to a game in six years. This was only my second Japanese baseball game, the first one being seven years ago, also in Tokyo.  

I can't tell you how to get tickets because my husband got them. It is a somewhat complicated process involving different dates and different seating areas for different membership tiers, including the free membership which is what we got to buy the tickets. Last Friday's game was between the Tokyo Yakult Swallows and Hiroshima Toyo Carp. The Swallows won the Japan Series last year, so they have been popular, and the stadium was nearly full. Since we bought the tickets on the first day they became available for our membership tier, we were still able to get great seats. 

A perfectly balmy evening for a baseball game. 

Baseball is just as popular, if not more so, in Japan as it is in the U.S. In the U.S., I've been to a few Mets games and a few White Sox games. There are lots of similarities between baseball here and there, but some differences as well. The most notable differences:

The Seats

The Meiji Jingu Stadium is old, dating back to 1926. Apparently it is one of the few standing professional stadiums, along with Wrigley Field and Fenway Park, that existed when Babe Ruth played. 

Perhaps because of its age, the stadium seats are narrow and small for just about anyone. Our friend J is tall and mostly sat with his legs together. He savored the minutes when his seat mates were getting food and drinks. While the seating is not luxurious, I didn't mind it. Our neighbors were respectful about keeping to their own space. Despite there being no government mandate for mask wearing outdoors, the majority wore masks. Everyone cleaned up after themselves (People say this is a Japanese phenomenon, and I have to say, I don't understand why this is phenomenon. It should be common sense.) and kept their rubbish in their own space.

The Food

The food is similar to its American counterpart, though there is more variety. It is definitely not healthy, but you can buy edamame, which is considered a good beer snack. You can easily buy food at grocery stores or convenience stores nearby and bring them with you into the stadium. Stadium food is reasonably priced, but outside food is still less expensive. 

Concession stands sell hot dogs, fried noodles, yakitori, fried chicken, etc. Let me show you some of the things we ate: 

Different types of bentos boxes. 

Takoyaki (grilled squid balls) with scallions and chili sauce. 

Pineapple shaved ice. 

A concession stand selling Chinese food. 

Three cheese french fries and a Kirin beer. 

Curry...with imprinted cheese. 

The Volume

The final major difference I noticed is the noise level at Japanese baseball games. I don't know what it is about sporting events in America, but the noise is deafeningly loud. The speakers blast music, and then people have to shout over the speakers to converse with each other. And then you have to buy baby earmuffs to prevent damage to your kid's ears. While there are also chants and cheers here, I found that I could talk at a normal volume and hear what my seat mates were saying. 

It's the same game around the world, but the experience of watching baseball is definitely unique in Japan. Even though I don't know anything about baseball (I mostly follow what is happening based on crowd cues), I had a great time. I would even say that it was more fun to watch baseball in Japan than in the U.S. as someone who is not a big baseball fan. The environment was more relaxed. After all, there was so much to enjoy - the food, the company, and the beautiful spring evening. 

Rainy Season is Here Again

Rainy season is here once more. I don't mind it much, except for two things: 1) it makes commuting by bicycle trickier, though a massive poncho solves most of my commute problems (if the rain and wind is typhoon-grade, we take a taxi), and 2) more than anything, I hate the mosquitos. 

With temperatures climbing and the sun getting stronger by day, you - by which I mean, me - seek refuge in shady, cool places and avoid outdoor activities when it is really sunny and hot. Unfortunately, so do mosquitos. Even though they are warm weather bugs, mosquitos avoid the sun. So if your kids want to go to the park, you can either bake in the sun or get eaten alive by mosquitos in the shade. It sounds dramatic, but it is true. 

Last night, a mosquito somehow got into my daughter's bedroom. She awoke in the morning with FOURTEEN mosquito bites. Lucky for us, we have muhi patches. Muhi patches are small, round adhesives placed on bug bites to reduce itching and inflammation. For young kids, this is doubly convenient because it prevents them from scratching their skin into oblivion and risking infection. They are also peachy-tan in color, which makes them subtle and nice to use for adults as well. 

As for commuting, commuter bicycles in Japan are well-equipped to handle the rain. Mine, like most, is waterproof and comes with a rain cover for the rear child seat. Since M rarely rides it, unlike E, who rides it everyday, we didn't get a cover for the front child seat where she sits. If we had wanted, though, it would have been easy to cover the front as well. 

It may sound extreme to cycle in the rain with kids, but even in the rain, it is the most effective mode of transportation. On most rainy days, it is easier to cycle than to hail a taxi or take public transport. It can be difficult to find an unoccupied taxi when it is raining during the morning rush hour. Our bicycle ride to school takes 7-8 minutes, so in the time it takes to flag a taxi, we would nearly be there. From our home, the metro is a 7 minute walk. On the other end, it's another 5 minute walk from the nearest station to school. The bus is 5 minutes and 4 minutes, respectively. Likewise, it would be faster to cycle than to use the metro or bus. And so we cycle. 

In a couple more weeks, we will need not only bug repellent but also a hat, sun cream, and a handy water bottle. At least the temperatures are still relatively low right now. We have had the occasional hot day, but for the most part, it has been in the 60s and 70s.  The cloud coverage allows you to go outside without slathering on sun cream. These are the best things about rainy season, and I am going to enjoy them while they last. 

Ueno Zoo (Post-Corona Restrictions)

    It is 65 degrees Fahrenheit today, but last Sunday, it was in the upper 80s. It was the rare hot spring day in Tokyo, though it is getting frighteningly less rare. Despite the heat, we went to Ueno Zoo. 

    It had been impossible to obtain reservations due to Covid restrictions. Every Saturday morning at 9am, a limited number of online reservations would become available on a first-come first-serve basis for the following week. Every time I tried, waiting on my computer until 9am sharp, I failed. No matter how quickly I clicked, all feasible time slots were full. So when this reservation system finally gave way to a less restrictive one last weekend, I jumped at the opportunity. 

   It is hard to exaggerate the number of people lined up outside the zoo when we arrived. I had purchased online tickets and arrived right at opening time, and so had everyone else. In fact, there was no wait to purchase tickets in-person, which kind of defeats the purpose of pre-purchasing tickets online. It took 45 minutes just to get inside the zoo! I thought this was typically Tokyo - everyone is an early bird, and everyone plans ahead. So we all end up in the same long line. 

    Of course, the animals were lethargic too. The heat wasn't too bad in the morning, but the sun was intense. I would have preferred a drizzle. When you first arrive in Japan and see people with arm bands, humongous visors, and parasols, you may think that they are simply warding off tans. I certainly thought so. After a year of living here, I realized that without these things, I would probably develop skin cancer and cataracts. Sun cream, sunglasses, and hats are musts for outdoor outings in Tokyo! 

The elephant, wondering why it is so hot in May. 

The tiger, wondering why it is so hot in May.

Hedwig, wondering why it is so hot in May. 

    Going to the zoo always makes me think about this New Yorker article I read a few years ago. It is about the social role of zoos, the moral and ethical considerations of their existence, and their impact on animal welfare and endangerment. I loved going to zoos before I was old enough to consider any of these issues. Being an adult has not made the zoo less fun, but rather more interesting. 

    The Ueno Zoo is centrally located but not large. Actually, Tama Zoo, which is farther from central Tokyo, is much bigger. This makes Ueno suitable for younger kids with less endurance. But it also means longer lunch lines on the weekends. 

    The main sit-down restaurant in Ueno is near the monkeys in the East Garden. It was nearly full when we headed there around 11am. In Japan, it is normal to reserve a seat with personal items. There are people who reserve with bags and jackets (normal), and there are those who reserve with a plastic water bottle (questionable, but still works since no one will steal your water bottle and even fewer who want a confrontation over a water bottle). This is how an entire restaurant fills up before anyone has even gotten their food. We luckily found one of the last remaining booths indoors. 

The ever-popular panda nikuman (steamed bun with pork inside)

Reserve your seats first!

    These jelly pouches are nice for hot days like Saturday. I froze them beforehand so they would still be cold during our outing. It took nearly an hour to get our food, but since the kids had had their mid-morning snack, the wait wasn't so bad. 

    By the time lunch ended around 12:45, the temperature had climbed to a sweltering 88 F. The East Garden and the West Garden are connected by short walkway. While the east side has a restaurant, the west side has more food trucks and snack food. It also houses the large African mammals, such as the giraffes, okapi, rhinos, etc. 

    We entered the zoo shortly after 10am and finished seeing everything before 2pm. Between then, we took a long lunch break and plenty of snack and toilet breaks. 

Food options outside the zoo: an old-timey concession stand.

    This was our first Ueno Zoo outing as a family since we moved here. It was fun, but if I am honest, I I would prefer overcast conditions next time - even a drizzle!  On the other hand, kids don't mind it nearly as much as adults do. After all, a hot and crowded day at the zoo is a classic day at the zoo.