Happy New Year from Japan

New Year's in Japan is perhaps the biggest holiday of the year. It is when businesses close, employees enjoy a longish stretch of vacation, and winter holidays begin for students. Cities become emptier as residents, especially younger ones, return to their families to celebrate the New Years. There are a lot of Shinto traditions embedded in the celebrations, but I'm not familiar with those since my husband's family does not really observe them. Nevertheless, New Year's decorations everywhere reflect this distinct Japanese aesthetic.

Modern arrangement waiting to be picked up at my favorite flower shop in Tokyo's Jingumae neighborhood.

A more traditional New Year's arrangement.

More traditional decorations for the New Year. 

This year, we are also leaving the city for a more rural setting. We are headed to the mountain town of Karuizawa. If you read my summer posts, you will recognize it as a place we have visited before. Karuizawa is a family favorite because, as a mountain town, it is cool in the summer and good for downhill skiing in the winter. On previous trips, we borrowed my in-laws' car, but both my kids, especially E, have been getting car sick recently. They are more sensitive to the jerky zippiness of electric cars. The curvy mountain roads don't help. Maybe it is an age-related thing too? 

Anyhow, we decided to take the Shinkansen this time. It was both girls' first time riding it. E was super excited. In my opinion, the best part about riding the Shinkansen is choosing a bento to eat during the ride. Shinkansen trains always depart from large stations offering a dizzying array of bentos and snacks. E spotted a Shinkansen-shaped bento and of course wanted that. While it was not the most delicious choice, it was an adamant one, so we got it. It was insanely crowded in Tokyo station. The ride lasted just over an hour compared with a two-and-a-half hour car drive without traffic. 

E has been asking me why it does not snow in Tokyo. Born and raised in Chicago with interludes in Minnesota until she was four years old, the girl knows only snowy and frigid winters. She is naturally suspicious of a balmy sunny Christmas. Here in Karuizawa, she finally got her snow. It snowed all day on New Year's Eve, covering the trees, sidewalks, and slopes with a fine, powdery snow. 

A side street in Kyu-Karuizawa, or old Karuizawa

Karuizawa is a ski town. It has its own ski resort and is a good base for day trips to other resorts. The gentle local slopes are good for beginners and intermediate skiers. E dappled in downhill skiing last year with her grandpa. I think she enjoyed spending time with her grandpa more than the skiing itself. This year, we enrolled her in a group ski class, hoping that learning with other kids would be more fun. E, unlike her sister, harbors reservations when it comes to physical activities outside her comfort zone. The great thing about kids is how much they manage to surprise you. E quickly warmed up to skiing. On the second day, she almost gave up on skiing in the afternoon. With a little nudge, she decided to ski after all. It's a good thing she did, because she made the most progress that afternoon and ended the day on a high note. I want to ski tomorrow too, she proclaimed. 

Enjoying toddler ski school.

Skiing with grandpa. 

New Year's Day in Karuizawa began with sunshine and blue skies. My husband's mother and grandmother had spent the previous two days preparing a traditional New Year's breakfast, called Osechi Ryori. It is served in a lacquered black and red vessel called jubako. I think foods eaten for Osechi Ryori are designed to last a few days so that it can be prepared ahead of time. This way, everyone can relax and eat together on New Year's morning. 

Burdock root, carrots, chicken, lotus root, and mountain yam stewed in a dashi broth.

An assortment of fish cakes, rolled egg, sweet chestnut, fish eggs, and abalone.

Ozoni, New Year's soup: daikon, carrot, fish cake, toasted mochi, chicken, yuzu, and Japanese herbs.

New Year's Day in Karuizawa: cold and sunny with one fox sighting (no photo though). Wishing all of you a happy, healthy, and all around better year in 2022!