Hakone: Part 2

    The rain made our cabin-like room feel cozy, but it also made traveling with two little kids tricky, so I was glad for the blue skies on day two. The kids, being in an unfamiliar environment and sleeping in one bed, roused each other awake early. The timing and weather was perfect for riding the Hakone Ropeway to see Owakudani, whose active sulfur vents were created by a volcanic eruption some thousands of years ago.

    First, we ate breakfast. Our hotel had a modern Japanese breakfast full of salads, sausages, eggs, fish, fruits, and some bread. Compared to western breakfasts, Japanese ones could pass for lunch, or even dinner. Then, on to Owakudani. 

    The ropeway is basically a gondola lift. We arrived about half an hour after opening time, and there was no line. The lift is suitable for kids, as it moves slowly - it is about a ten minute ride to the viewing site. On the way, we got a magnificent view of Mount Fuji. As we approached the area of the sulfur vents, we could smell the sulfur from inside the lift. It didn't bother me too much but gave my husband a headache. 

Very dramatic volcanic steam. 

Mount Fuji

    At the main viewing site are several souvenir shops and eateries. There you can buy black sulphur egg called "kuro tamago," literally, black eggs. These are just eggs that have been hardboiled in the sulphury hot springs, which is what turns them black. I wanted to try one, but they came in sets of six, and I could not commit to six of of these black eggs. 

Main viewing site.

Back at our starting point, there are more souvenir shops and a foot bath bar where you can soak your feet in thermal water whilst soaking in the mountain views. 

For lunch, we went near Lake Ashi to a cafe/restaurant called Bakery & Table. They have delicious baked goods, desserts, and sandwiches. My kids loved the curry pan (fried bread with curry filling inside - this place puts an egg inside too). You can order from a sit-down menu upstairs, or you can buy items from their cafe/bakery selection downstairs and eat on their terrace. The front terraced, pictured below, actually has a foot bath. Hakone seems to have lots of foot baths. We bought our lunch from the cafe/bakery and ate it on a bench overlooking Lake Ashi. 

The drink selection was interesting.

    On the shores of Lake Ashi is the Hakone Shrine. I didn't get a photo, but its red Torii rises out of the lake and is one of the famous landmarks of Hakone. 

    As is typical of any other day, the afternoon passes by in a blur with the kids' naps. The important thing was for them to be well-rested for our seven course dinner - our hotel's prix fixe dinner. The food came at a good pace. E made it through the dinner while M got a bit restless close to dessert but survived. It helped that they were served juice, which they don't usually get. The not-so-impressive kids meal was in stark contrast to our beautifully prepared courses. In the end, the kids ate a good amount of our food as well, so we were all able to enjoy it. 

Pork loin with Japanese leek and shiitake sauce.

Dessert was a standout: sakura mousse with candied ume. 

    Before we knew it, day three, the final day, was before us. The plan was to take our time and visit the Hakone Open Air Museum, one of my favorites, before heading home to Tokyo in the early afternoon. 

A last look at our hotel. 

The Hakone Open Air Museum is as much a garden as it is a museum. It displays a lot of sculptures outdoors. The mountainous setting and beautiful gardens make for a dramatic backdrop for the art. Its outdoor setting and numerous interactive exhibits make for a great place for both adults and children to visit. For instance, the Woods of Net is exclusively for children. It is a netted play structure were kids can swing from pendulums and scurry around in a web of nets. There is also a large Picasso exhibit, including an exhibit of Picasso's ceramic artwork, which he apparently did not embark on until he was 65. There is, also, another foot bath. 

Picasso

    We could have spent all day at the Open Air Museum, but alas our kids were sleep deprived, as kids get during vacation. So we hurried back to Bakery & Table for one last hurrah. If you visit the cafe, be sure to do it before noon. The second time we went, it was only a little past noon, but some sandwiches were already sold out. 

    By 3 pm, we were on the road en route back to Tokyo with two sleeping kids. Hakone was nice, but returning home felt nice too. Sometimes it feels like the whole point of going on vacation is to make you appreciate being home. Somehow the first day back home feels just as relaxing as the first day of vacation did. Until next time, Hakone.