Okinawa Part II: What We Did & What We Ate

Our Stay

I was impressed with the range of amenities our hotel provided for kids. I don't expect experiences to be customized for kids, but it makes things convenient and all the more enjoyable. For example, the staff had prepared a crib in our room complete with sheets and a blanket. There was a child toothbrush and toothpaste, room slippers, beach robe, and beach sandals. There were kids beach toys for loan, free of charge. While we had brought our own, I wouldn't have had I known, because beach toys are bulky to pack. There is also a hotel scavenger hunt with a prize at the end - a nice activity if you get tired of the beach and pool. Our kids were very happy. 

The Halekulani has a shallow but large kiddy pool, an infinity pool, and a quiet adults-only section with a smaller pool and jacuzzi. Indoors, there is a large family pool and two onsen baths. This came in handy in the cool and cloudy afternoons, despite warm and sunny mornings. Out of four days, there was one day of afternoon rain. I was glad to have packed light sweaters and jackets. Island weather can change so quickly!

Hotels in Japan almost always provide pajamas. We got pajamas for the whole family.

By the time we completed check-in, it was well past lunchtime, so we decided to eat at one of the hotel's restaurants. Being a Hawaiian hotel, of course Loco Moco was on the menu. I ordered it, and it was delicious. By the way, the bitter melon on the side is an Okinawan specialty and appears in a lot of Okinawan dishes. 

After lunch, my husband went with E to explore the hotel while I relaxed and enjoyed the view from our room as M napped. I would never plan a beach vacation myself, but when we do go on one, it is as relaxing as advertised. 

For dinner, we went to a restaurant a ten minute walk away from our hotel. It serves Okinawan pork, which we wanted to try. It was quite good, and the casual atmosphere was perfect for kids after a long day of traveling. 

Kayaking & Snorkeling Tour

This tour was one of the trip's highlights. The original tour we chose would have taken us to explore the "Blue Cave," but because strong winds were creating strong currents, we went instead to a tiny remote island. They provided all the equipment, including wetsuits for everyone, even little M. They also provided life jackets, though it was up to us for the snorkeling part. Despite being a strong swimmer, I chose to wear a life jacket. My husband, who was a competitive swimmer, did not. 

We kayaked from the main island to a smaller one about 20 minutes away (by kayak). E was given her own paddle, which she liked very much. M sat in front of me, wedged between my legs. Interestingly enough, she fell asleep within minutes. When we reached the small island, our guide told us about the different plant life and sea life we might encounter, and we were left to explore. We saw a lot of hermit crabs and snails on the sand. E loved looking for and collecting shells and sea glass. 

The tour company we used, Andago, is extremely kid-friendly. They provided inflatable floats on which the kids could lie on their stomachs and look into the water with full face masks. E could have gone snorkeling, but the mouthpiece was too much for her, so she opted to ride on a float with her sister. Our guide guided the kids on their floats while we snorkeled in the vicinity. He was super engaging and made E - who can get nervous in new situations like this - feel completely at ease. I didn't expect her to love the tour as much as she did! 

In retrospect, I wish I had snorkeled without the life vest. The currents were strong, but the wetsuits already made me more buoyant, and it was hard to dive underwater with the extra life vest. There were a lot of different types of colorful fish. We also saw tons of sea urchin tucked into the coral reefs. One sea urchin was almost the size of my head, but this apparently was a more poisonous type of sea urchin. 

We enjoyed some post-snorkeling tea and biscuits before returning to the main island on our kayaks once again. And again, M fell asleep as soon as we set off on the kayaks. Our tour was technically suppose to be two hours long, but our guide took his time showing and explaining to us interesting things, so our tour was closer to three hours. This tour was good for all levels and ages. Our guide clearly loved the ocean and what he does, and I feel this made the experience as enjoyable as it was. 

Garlic Shrimp & Kouri Island 

Kouri Island is a popular destination, as much for its garlic shrimp as for its beaches. October is low season, so the beach was almost empty. The water was pretty, but I preferred our hotel's beach. The sand was coarse, and bits of washed up seashell and coral made walking a little painful. 

The garlic shrimp was more exciting. We went to Kouri Shrimp, located by the beachfront. It is a casual eatery that is perfect for post-beach meals. While the menu is pretty limited to variations of garlic shrimp, the shrimp is really, really good. I got a refreshing acai smoothie to go with my lunch. The only downside is, if you have kids, you will spend more time peeling the shrimp than eating it. 

Spending time at the Halekulani

Our trip lasted five days and four nights. As a resort hotel, the Halekulani had a lot to offer by itself, including several swimming pools, a nice stretch of beach, various water activities, several restaurants, and evening performances. Our last couple of days were spent making the most of our stay. 

The best part about enjoying the beach at your hotel is all the beach equipment at your disposal. No need to lug around towels, umbrellas, and folding chairs. 

A cloudier (but still nice) day at the beach.

On the last night, we had dinner at the hotel's House Without A Key restaurant. It was really, really good. Although they have a kids menu, there are plenty of items on the main menu suitable for kids as well. I ordered the kids set for E, as she loves eating meal sets these days - meal sets are also very popular in Japan. 

I wish the set included more vegetables. The soup is cream of corn, and the pumpkin ramekin contains rice gratin. 

My favorite menu item was the mushroom truffle pasta. We also had a salad, a fish, and a Okinawan barbeque dish. We shared everything family style, which worked well because each dish contained a single food group (e.g., the bbq was just meat, no veggies or carbs). 

Hawaiian music and dancing with dinner.

And that was the end of our trip to Okinawa. E complained that "we are leaving but everyone else [the friends she made at the hotel] is staying!" Our return trip to Tokyo was just as smooth and uneventful as our outbound flight. We enjoyed our stay on the main island but would also love to visit the other Okinawa islands someday. 

Okinawa Part I

We just returned from our vacation in Okinawa. The first in two years where our destination was not the home of a family member. Also the first in two years where we did not have access to a laundry machine and where the destination was a completely unknown place. We spent quite a lot of time packing the day before departure, pondering on the what-ifs, which resulted in us bringing half our medicine supply. 

My mother-in-law came with us, to help with the kids and to redeem her unpleasant memory of visiting Okinawa 40 years ago. Back then, my husband had not been born yet and his brother was a baby. The family went to Okinawa for the baby's first beach vacation, excited to introduce the baby to the sand, sun, and ocean. As it so often turns out, the baby hated these elements. We were lucky enough set off for Okinawa with a good deal of certainty that our kids love the beach, as they talk about it constantly. Our destination was Okinawa Honto, the main Okinawa island.

The Flight to Okinawa 

We took a taxi to Haneda Airport, the closer of the two Tokyo airports. The kids followed in their grandparents' car. In Japan, babies and toddlers may ride in taxis without carseats (even newborns from the hospital). Since this trip was long and went through highways, we used the carseats. 

It took about half an hour from the city center to Haneda Airport. The airport was predictably empty, and it took less than 15 minutes to check our bags and go through security. We flew with Skymark, a Japanese budget airline comparable to Southwest. Despite its low cost, the customer service was good and our flights were on-time. 

We had to check our stroller at the counter, but they offered this convenient contraption that was actually preferable to our umbrella stroller. 

Breezing through security. 

Because we left home before 7am, we had packed a couple of sandwiches for the kids to eat for breakfast at the airport. But we didn't need to. In Japan, even at the airport, food is widely accessible, inexpensive, and varied. There are restaurants and convenience stores at the airport selling different types of food at the same prices as those outside the airport. 

Apple and persimmon (seasonal fruits) vending machine at Haneda.

Bottled water at the airport convenience store for about $1 USD

Our direct flight to Okinawa had some empty seats. We were lucky to have a seat for M without purchasing one. Just shy of two years old, she is the same height as some three year olds and looked a bit large for a lap child. Still, the requirements are based on age, and so we had to hold her for take off and landing. 

The flight was about two and a half hours long. They served coffee or water, a packet of KitKat, and a mask. Additional drinks and snacks were available for purchase (at a very reasonable price). The seats were comfortable, the plane was clean, and the flight attendants attentive. We were also able to check one free bag each, which according to my husband is standard for Japanese airlines. I was happy with our flight experience and would use the same airline again. 

Arrival in Naha, Okinawa

From Naha Airport, where we landed, our hotel was more than an hour's drive.  I'm not sure how public transportation is within Naha, the city, but it is difficult to get to other parts of the island without a car. With kids in tow, we rented car with car seats for ease of transportation.

We chose the main Okinawan island, Okinawa Honto, because there were more non-water activities for young kids in case of a rainy day, or for variety. There are a few farmer's markets, a nice aquarium, and a pineapple theme park, not to mention a lot of good restaurants. Our hotel was the Halekulani. The first and only other Halekulani is in Hawaii, so ours had a Hawaiian flair. It has a nice stretch of beach and both outdoor and indoor pools. The in house dining is expensive, but it is within close driving distance to delicious and inexpensive restaurants in the area. Having a rental car let us take advantage of those options. 

A Hawaiian welcome.

What we did and what we ate - to be continued in Part II!

Women's Fashion in Tokyo

I was scrolling endlessly through Ragtag's online store and spotted a jacket perfect for the autumn. Being a conservative shopper, I hesitated, looking at other clothes to buy more time. When I clicked checkout five minutes later, the jacket's photo had faded to gray - sold out. Nooo. I texted my husband, "I'm a little depressed bc this jacket sold out right before I was able to check out online. It's not easy to find clothes I like this much here." The story ends happily: an hour later, I went to look at the jacket's photo one last time. Lo and behold, it was back in stock. I bought it immediately. Such is the emotional rollercoaster of online shopping. I don't do it often. 

I am a mismatch for Japanese fashion. Still, I can find nice basics at Uniqlo. When I want something a little different, something special, I go to Ragtag. Ragtag is a large consignment store. It has a more eclectic collection of clothes, shoes, and accessories than any one retail store. Since everything is used, prices are a fraction of the original. Clothing sales here are neither as ubiquitous nor as steep as they are in America. Moreover, used goods are usually in great, and sometimes impeccable, condition. People really respect and care for their belongings here (Marie Kondo kind of encapsulates this spirit). If you visit Japan, thrift stores and consignment shops are great places to find unique gifts and souvenirs. 

The Everyday Look

This section is about mainstream styles I see on the streets everyday. Barring nuances, I would generally describe it as loose, boxy, and layered. Even in the summer, you will see a tunic shirt layered over loose pants, or a loose vest layered over a long-sleeved shirt. Here are some common looks.

Uniqlo

Gu

Uniqlo

I suppose it is a variation on the international trend of loose clothes, such as straight legged and barrel legged jeans. 

Ultra-feminine clothing is very popular, especially among young women, though I would say that women's clothing of all ages are distinctly feminine. You can see lots of pleats, pastels, bows, puffs, and lace (not black lace, more like powdery blue or white lace). This is the kawaii aesthetic: cute, feminine, and even child-like. Reina Triendl is a popular TV personality who epitomizes the kawaii aesthetic. When I first saw her, I thought she could pass for a high school student. In reality, she is 30 years old.  

You will also notice that female newscasters tend to wear more flowing dresses and fewer power pants. 

Not the greatest example, but you get the gist.

Makeup

The natural no-makeup look is totally not a thing in Japan. This is interesting, because traditional Japanese aesthetics pivots on the notion of appreciating imperfection. This is called wabi-sabi. It is rooted in Buddhism, which honors the transience and imperfection of nature. Think of traditional Japanese pottery or a zen garden. 

I don't think wabi-sabi extends to facial beauty. Japanese women wear makeup almost universally, and the makeup is meant to conceal all perceived imperfections. Most Japanese makeup tutorials have you shadowing your face to make your nose look longer, narrower, and higher. Some show you how to use eyeliner to create the illusion of an extra fold in your eyelid. 

Ultimately, I think, makeup is less a means of individual expression or creativity and more about looking put together and beautiful (by standards determined by the collective society). Both the skincare and beauty industries in Japan are mega. 

Hair

Similarly, the natural tousled hair won't garner much appreciation. Everyone is perfectly coiffed. Some hairstyles are meant to look perfect while others are a bit more creative. No matter the hairstyle, you can tell that it was intentional. It is the apparent intentionality that is appreciated. This is very interesting to me, because I am more familiar with cultures that celebrate effortless beauty. On the contrary, in Japan, the time and effort you spend to make yourself presentable is a marker of respect for the people around you. So it's not a bad thing to look like you have tried hard to look good. 

On that note, it must not come as a surprise that athleisure is not popular in Japan. I am totally ok with this, because I only wear exercise clothes when I am exercising. However, my hair and makeup are giveaways that I am probably not Japanese. 

These are just the most common styles I see. I wish I had the nerve to take photos of people wearing interesting things on the street to show you! If you are still curious, you can visit these Youtube channels to get a better idea:

TsurisaKitcheninParis

Reina Triendl's Channel

Daydreaming of Travel

Early autumn in Tokyo

As of October 1, the third (or maybe fourth?) round of state of emergency is over in Japan. Things are looking good this time around. Japan's vaccination rates are increasing steadily, with over 60% vaccinated. Daily number of new cases in Tokyo fell below 200. People continue to wear masks. If things stay on course, who knows? Maybe we can think about travel again in a few months. 

Things are moving forward cautiously here. The most predictable thing about this pandemic is how unpredictable it is, and because of this, everyone is treading lightly despite improving statistics. I left a lot of things in my parents' basement in February, thinking that we would see each other again in a few short months. It doesn't look like that will happen until early next year. I would not say I'm an optimistic person, yet this pandemic has repeatedly exceeded my bleak expectations. When school and businesses closed in March 2020, I thought it would last a few months. When vaccinations rolled out in the United States in early 2021, I thought, just a couple more months. When we left America, M was just over a year old, and potty training was still a remote idea. I also tend to think of time as passing more (wishfully) slowly when it comes to kids, so I thought we would be back to collect those things when the time came. Now M is almost 2, ready to potty train, and the training potty is still sitting in my parents' basement. 

Despite this, I find myself thinking about traveling more and more! My possible destinations are divided among three categories: visiting family and friends (and not necessarily the places they live), places I want to visit again, places I've never been and want to go. Since we have never been on an international holiday with both kids, even repeat destinations promise new experiences. At the top of my list are Norway (never been, for a Polar Night run held every winter), Chile (been without kids, loved it, and would like to see the Patagonia next time), Paris (been multiple times, but who can stay away? Would also love to visit other areas of France), and Hungary (never been, would go for the music alone). 

While the time has not come for us to travel internationally yet, we do have domestic travel plans. We have a flight booked for Okinawa later this month. Neither my husband nor I have been, and we are very excited. There are several Okinawa islands. We are headed for the main island.

Meanwhile, life in Tokyo has been good. The days start and end cool and culminate in warm, but not hot, temperatures. The sweet olive trees have blossomed a second time. The first was early September. I didn't know trees could blossom twice in a month. I won't complain because it is the most beautiful scent. There were sweet olive trees planted in front of my childhood school in New Orleans, so it is also a very nostalgic scent.

The sweet olive trees are yellow here, but I remember them being white in New Orleans.

Persimmon trees are also ripening with its fruits. I have never lived in a place where persimmons grow on a city street like this. 

Limited international travel has allowed us to better enjoy our immediate surroundings. In Tokyo alone, there are neighborhoods that would take an entire day to explore. And being new to Japan, there is still so much to see. The wonderful thing about having limited options is that it gives you the freedom to cherish what you have. It's the freedom to enjoy the moment and not make choices. 

New Habits and Old Habits

We have been living in Japan for more than six months now. Being here this long has changed some of my habits. Here are a few ways Japan has changed me:

1. Putting Ice in Beverages

I used to make fun of how cold Americans like their beverages. I would always request no ice when ordering drinks, but it never worked. Not only was there ice, there was usually more ice than beverage. And all the accessories designed to keep ice from melting! And all the iced coffee, and all the people drinking it both in the summer and winter. 

Now I have become someone who cannot live without ice in the summer. I blame it on the humidity, relentless heat, and restrained air conditioning. During July and August, I could only drink iced coffee. I consumed a shocking amount of frozen treats. Worst of all, after making fun of my husband's heavy duty Yeti mug, I used it exclusively all summer. After an outing on a hot day, all I could do was lie on my bed drinking iced water from the Yeti. 

2. Dressing (More) Conservatively 

I found it frustrating to move from a society with a relatively progressive attitude towards women's clothing to a society with a relatively conservative one. What is perfectly normal in Chicago might be considered risqué in Tokyo. This attitude is even more pronounced towards women past their 20s. I guess it feels like there is too much moral gatekeeping of women's appearances. And that women bear the burden of shielding their bodies from objectification. 

I'm a pretty ordinary dresser by most western standards. I live mostly in jeans and blouses. In the summer, I like tank tops, shorts, and dresses. But I really struggled with my summer wardrobe here. On the one hand, I wanted to wear as little as possible to stay cool. On the other hand, I did not want unwanted attention. You won't see many people wearing tank tops or anything above the knee. 

One of my running buddies commented that nobody would notice amongst the extreme outfits you can spot on the streets of Tokyo: skirts so short that they look like fringes, anime getups, and full-blown punk rock outfits. The thing is, Japanese fashion is kind of bifurcated into what is normal and what is not. Unless you have clearly left the realm of what is broadly considered socially acceptable, as a 30s something woman, I have found that there is not much freedom to dress as you like. 

3. Minding traffic lights (more than before)

Unsurprisingly, Japanese people follow traffic rules precisely. Even on a small one-lane street with few cars, pedestrians will only cross when the light turns green. I am impatient by nature, and this felt completely unnatural to me at first. Gradually, I started accepting these pedestrian norms. Still, if I ever move back to New York, I will probably revert to jaywalking in mere hours. 

4. Using Body Language to Communicate 

In Japan, nonverbal communication is indispensable. A slight nod can be a greeting. It can mean excuse me. It can represent consent or an apology. A bow can also mean all these things but in a more formal context. For example, when you get on the elevator and there is already somebody inside, you would give a slight nod to acknowledge their presence and as a way of saying excuse me (for interrupting their ride, for sharing the space). Same thing when you get off. It is not weird for all this to transpire without words. 

Body language is such a cornerstone of communication that Japanese people will bow and nod during telephone conversations, even though the other person obviously cannot see them. 

5. Shopping In-Store

Returns are trickier in Japan compared to the U.S.. If something is returnable at all, the return period is usually one week. I once tried returning a Muji shirt I had bought four days ago. The store representative told me that I could not return it because I had bought it at another store that was in another neighborhood in Tokyo. Even chain retailers have strict return policies. 

Perhaps because of this, in person shopping is very much well and alive here. I want to feel certain of a purchase, and the easiest way to do that is to see it in person before buying it. Even if it means having to use my awkward Japanese. I just have no appetite for returns anymore.

I think more person shopping also results in more purchases from local and small businesses. It helps that prices don't seem to vary as much here. It is incredible how many small businesses thrive in Tokyo. 

6. Using my Bike to Commute Everywhere

I wrote an entire blog post on my commuter bike, or mamachari, as it is called here. Mine has both front and rear child seats, plus a basket. Biking is the perfect method of transportation for Tokyo's narrow and winding streets. It is faster than driving. In fact, cars are a liability in Tokyo. You have to stop every few feet to avoid pedestrians, bikes, and other cars. Streets are barely wide enough for a normal sedan. Parking is difficult and gas is very expensive. 

With a rain cover for the child's seat and an unstylish but effective poncho for myself, I can ride it in the rain too. The independence and flexibility biking offers is my favorite part of living in Tokyo. 

7. Feeling Safe

Tokyo is an incredibly safe city. Most of my life, I have lived in cities with high rates of violent crime. After having kids, I barely went out past bedtime, partly because I didn't have the energy and partly because the risk was not worth it. I took taxis when what I really wanted to do was walk. I avoided parks and abandoned streets at night. I clutched my bags close to me on the train. It took me some time to break these habits. Now we sometimes have "night walks" after dinner. It is a great feeling to be able to enjoy the nighttime as much as the daytime. 

8. Vacuuming Everyday

Maybe it is because the floors are light, and so dirt and dust become more visible. Maybe everyone in the family now has thick hair or long hair or both. Maybe there is more food debris without our canine Roomba. Or maybe the light, cordless vacuums are easier to use. It might be a bit of all these things, but the vacuum gets daily use. 

The Mid-Autumn Moon Festival

Happy Autumn Solstice! Summer has finally, officially, come to an end. Tokyo still has hot days here and there, but the days now begin and end with cool temperatures, which makes a big difference.  

I went for a morning jog in Yoyogi Park. It was a little too sunny, but not too bad. Yoyogi Park is a pretty crazy park. On weekends when the weather is nice, there are what seems like fifty different exercise groups congregating all over the park. There are families, people doing fashion photoshoots, kids learning to ride bikes, lone joggers, and picnickers. There is a small dog park within the larger park. Unlike many other Japanese parks, there is also a homeless encampment. Since a lot of non-Japanese residents live in neighborhoods close to Yoyogi Park, you will find people of all different backgrounds. It is a very international park. 

Most of Japan is still in a state of emergency, due to expire at the end of September. Yesterday, the Tokyo Metropolitan Area logged 537 new Covid-19 cases. It is one of the lowest days in months. Everyone is eager to travel and waiting to see whether the state of emergency gets extended. It is unlikely that it will, but you never know with covid. 

Today is a national holiday to mark the autumn solstice. My husband, who is Japanese, claimed for years that the Japanese do not celebrate this. I found it interesting, since it is a major holiday in other East Asian cultures (Chinese and Korean). It turns out that people do celebrate the autumn solstice here in Japan, and in much of the same ways as in China. Namely, eating mooncakes and other round, moon-like things. My family was not the most traditional. We did eat mooncakes and Asian pears. I think the main thing for every Chinese holiday is to have a gathering and eat a lot. 

This year, we did not have a big gathering. but we did eat some round things, like mochi, meatballs, and this dessert made of glutinous rice and bean paste. The yellow one had chestnut paste. I think this is the Japanese equivalent of the Chinese mooncake. 

Even though it's been warm this week, temperatures are suppose to drop this weekend. I'm looking forward to getting in a couple of long runs. I am considering doing a half marathon. The longest race I have run is a 15K, and if it were just me, I would be fine sticking to this distance. It's my sweet spot - not too short and not too long. But my husband, who has also never run more than a 15K, is trying to persuade me to run a half with him. My running speed is at a low point at the moment because I haven't been running much during the summer. My longest run this past month has been a 10K. If I improve my endurance in the next few weeks, maybe it will motivate me enough to go for it. Marathon or not, I'm excited to spend more time outside!

Sunday Hike on Mount Takao

Before falling asleep last Saturday night, my husband mentioned something about hiking on Sunday. Something about an easy hike with a paved path. It sounded fun and easy, but I woke up Sunday morning having forgotten about the conversation. As I was pondering what we should do that day, my husband reminded me about the hike. So we made the usual preparations for the outdoors: mosquito repellent, water bottles, diapers, hats (no sunscreen, as it has been mercifully cloudy lately).

Mount Takao, or Takao san, is a sacred mountain located in Hachioji, Tokyo. From Shinjuku Station at the city center, you can take the Keio semi-express line, which will take you directly to the mountain in under an hour. We took a taxi to Shinjuku Station to "conserve the kids' energy," as my husband put it. 

Because it takes us a long time to get ready and leave home, it was 10:45 am by the time we arrived. I was hungry already and bought an onigiri, a small bag of trail mix, and yaki dango at the train station. 

There are several trails to the mountain's peak but only one paved trail. On this trail, it takes about 90 minutes to reach the summit. If you don't want to climb the entire thing, there is a cable car that goes halfway up the mountain. It is about $9 USD per person, round trip or $4.50 USD per person, one-way. We took the paved path the entire way because we had our stroller. The first half of the path, though paved, is quite steep. It is not too bad if you are just walking. With the stroller, it was a workout.  

Beginning our hike.

We replenished our energy with plenty of snacks along the way, including soft serve, more dango, and taiyaki (grilled wafer-like cake with sweet filling). The main areas for eating and restaurants are the base, the cable car station midway, and the summit. There is also a small shrine and a temple, where we explored and rested. 

A random but seasonal display of origami.

The closer we got to the top, the more difficult it became to climb with the stroller. We had to choose between the main paved path with steep stairs or the very rocky but stair-less path. We chose the rocky path. My husband used the Ergobaby carrier while I carried the stroller. M, who is not even two years old, is the height of a three year old, so carrying her in Ergobaby was no easy feat. Luckily, the path ended quickly as we reached the summit. 

The hike was doable with a stroller but would have been ideal with a hiking carrier. For an older toddler like E, walking, though slow, was the easiest. It took us over two hours to reach the summit. In retrospect, it would have been easiest to use the cable car. But then again, reaching the peak is all the more sweeter when you've done it on your own. I was impressed by the number of small children hiking by themselves. E managed to climb over two miles up and one mile back down, motivated by snacks and the promise of soft serve. There was a little grumbling, but she loved it in the end. 

The view at the top

The higher you go, the fewer restaurant options there are. Plan to eat at one of the numerous restaurants at the base if you want a nice dining experience. The cable car station midway up has a handful of options, including a soba restaurant. There is one soba restaurant at the summit. It is rustic and small with a limited menu that is nevertheless quite good. By the time we sat down for lunch, it was nearly 2 pm, so the restaurant was not crowded. But as the sole eatery, I expect it gets very busy at peak lunch hour. A lot of people were eating their own bentos - a great option if you have time to plan. I don't know what it is with soba and mountains. Or maybe it is soba and shrines. Or maybe all three. Every Japanese mountain I have climbed has a shrine and soba. 

On the descent, we took the paved path with stairs, carrying the baby and stroller. This felt slightly shorter than the stair-less route. And this time, we took the cable car the last half down. 

Back at the base, we explored food stalls selling "local" items. We bought some dried soba. They had fresh ones to be cooked within a week and semi-fresh ones to be cooked within a month. We also bought - my favorite - roasted chestnuts. I have had roasted chestnuts in a lot of countries, and nowhere are they as perfect as they are in Japan. You usually get a few duds in the pack, either rotten or ones where the skin does not peel off nicely. Every single one of the chestnuts we bought here were deliciously perfect. 

E, who still occasionally naps, was excited about the prospect of not having to nap, since the trip took all day. And of course, she promptly fell into a deep sleep on the train ride back home. In fact, half the train was sleeping (it was another semi-express, so most passengers were also riding from Mount Takao). 

I want to return later in autumn when the leaves start turning colors but have heard that it becomes unbearably crowded on the weekends. We might try squeeze a hike into a weekday, or maybe explore another mountain. 

An Early Autumn

On September 1, the weather in Tokyo changed abruptly. All of a sudden, the sweltering heat and oppressive sunshine were gone. It felt like I had traveled to another season in another city: gray clouds, a light breeze, and a slight chill. Everyone says that Tokyo remains hot until mid-September at best, so I thought this cooler weather was just an aberration at first. But looking at the forecast for the next ten days, it seems like it is here to stay. Autumn has arrived early in Tokyo. 

Last autumn was the first one in which I walked the kids to and from daycare every day due to our new pandemic schedule. Although it was a pain at times, the walks made me appreciate the beauty of neighborhood. 

Early September in Bucktown

Glorious autumn.

The autumn air has made me feel nostalgic. It reminds me of listening to podcasts while taking long walks with my dog. It also reminds me of stepping on dog poop, covered and camouflaged by leaves. I don't miss that. 

Last year was the first year that E became fully aware of each season and all its celebrations. "Happy Halloweeeeen!" she began chirping, as soon as the neighborhood decorations went up. She would continue saying this until she finished the last of her Halloween candy weeks later. I disliked Halloween before kids and now with kids, I love it. My husband said that it wasn't really celebrated in Tokyo when he was a kid. It seems like things have changed, because as of September 1, you can find Halloween candy displayed prominently in grocery stores. 

A more conventional autumn food here, as in many other places, is chestnuts. Chestnut and mont blanc themed desserts are cropping up everywhere, like these mont blanc flavored KitKat bars. The actual dessert is better, but it was interesting to try. 

Just as my husband's grandmother made takenoko gohan (bamboo rice) to celebrate spring, she made kuri gohan (chestnut rice) to celebrate autumn - alongside an impressive plate of gyoza. 

All this, and the leaves haven't even begun changing their colors! Japan really loves seasonal foods and celebrating each season. 

There is a word in Japanese to describe summer malaise. It is natsubate. "Natsu" means summer in Japanese and "bate" is fatigue or tiredness. Japanese summers are not the hottest I've experienced - temperatures reached 100 Fahrenheit only once or twice - but the heat and humidity are unrelenting. Even at night, the temperature would stay in the 80s. Every day was the same: baking sun, humidity, high 80s to low 90s. I avoided going outside, and exercising was difficult. It felt like a quarantine. 

With the temperature dropping and clouds providing sun relief, I feel like I am shedding natsubate. With weather like this, we have renewed energy to go forth and explore. 

5 More Unique Features of a Japanese Home

Of all the features below, air conditioning has been the biggest difference we have experienced the past few months. Because the a/c is not constantly on, we have experienced summer more acutely than ever before. Here is a full list of home features you will find in Japan:

1. Gas/Hot Water

In our home, and in most Japanese homes, you have to manually turn the gas on to turn the hot water on. It is simply a matter of pressing a button, but it is nonetheless an extra step, so we use hot water far less often than we did in Chicago. Before showering or bathing, I turn on the gas, and can use hot water right away. After I am done, I turn it off. Gas, electricity, and water all costs significantly more here than it did in America. It's possible that this is a way of limiting use. 

On a related note, Malcolm Gladwell's podcast Revisionist History aired an episode on the most eco-friendly way to do laundry, which is to do laundry with cold water. So the most eco-friendly detergents, therefore, are those that work most effectively with cold water. I recently listened to this episode and wondered if using less hot water in general is also more environmentally friendly. I suppose it uses less gas (i.e., energy). 

Another interesting feature is that the control panel for the gas and bath is in both the bathroom and the kitchen. Although the hot water becomes available immediately, the bath tub takes some time to fill. This way, you can start filling the tub with hot water after dinner, right from the kitchen. 

2. Balcony

Laundry is usually line-dried in Japan, so balconies are a necessity. You can always see people's clothes drying on their balconies. 

Our balcony is unique in that clothes-drying is prohibited. I'm not sure why this is, but it is a pain because balcony-drying is surprisingly effective. We have a powerful dryer fan that converts the shower room into a clothes-dryer. It is very loud, and I imagine it uses quite a bit of energy. It sounds like an airplane engine. While it is nice to have this option on rainy and very humid days, balcony drying is, surprisingly, just as effective on most days. Never underestimate the power of crosswinds. 

It is a rainy day, so there is no laundry drying, but you can see plenty of balconies. 

3. Room Air Conditioning

Central air conditioning is rare in Japan. Our apartment building, though a new building, has no central a/c. Instead, we have room air conditioning. It took getting used to, but I prefer having this kind of unit a/c. This way, we can customize the temperature of each room at night. And when you have to turn the air conditioning on in every room, you naturally become more aware of using air conditioning and use it only when you need it. 

We have an open concept living and dining room. Since it is a large room, there are two air conditioning units in that room. 

4. Dedicated Toilet Room

Besides the multi-functioning Japanese toilet, the toilet room itself is a unique feature of a Japanese home. Toilets are separate from the shower room and main vanity sink. For example, we have one bathroom (with shower and vanity) and two toilet rooms (with a small sink but no shower). This makes sense for Japanese people, who love soaking in the bath at the end of the day. This is a family affair in the sense that everyone takes their turn soaking. With a separate toilet, all that soaking can continue uninterrupted. Also, multi-bathroom homes are far less common here. 

5. Floor Heating

Just like the air conditioning, floor heating is not centralized. Each room has its own floor heating system. Large rooms like the living room are divided into two sections with their separate controls. It works well. And since we don't wear shoes indoors, it keeps your feet extra cozy. I imagine my dog would have loved this feature. Here is the control panel for floor heating: